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In early May 2004 we took a long weekend in western North Carolina, starting every day from our room in Hendersonville. It's a pleasant town, close to our arrival airport and convenient to the sights we wanted to see.
Most of the cars in Hendersonville are newer than this one, which was visiting from Michigan. The vanity plate answers everyone's first question. The answer to the second question is 1949.
Like a lot of places, Hendersonville is showing off street art this year. The bears are fiberglass, decorated by local artists. If you look closely, you'll see there are only two forms. So the artists are challenged to make their bears special. So some of the bears have to hold things.
According to legend, a Cherokee maid grew despondent when she learned her lover had been killed in battle. So she ended her life with a leap from Hendersonville's Jump Off Rock. For the more optimistic, the views are excellent in all directions.
It was cloudy for the whole weekend, so we had to compromise a bit on the views. These are from later in our visit: first near the Cradle of Forestry, then at Chimney Rock. The second view shows why these are called the Smoky Mountains.
The great American poet Carl Sandburg lived here, in Flat Rock — just a couple of miles from Hendersonville. His home is now a national museum. We didn't make time to visit there because there was something else in Flat Rock we wanted to see, so we'll have to go back some day. Sandburg wrote a bit of prose too, including Millville, which appeals to me because it's about South Jersey. It's not well known because the author was still using the pen name Charles Sandburg.
Flat Rock is where to find the St. John in the Wilderness Episcopal Church. It was first built in 1833 as a private chapel on the grounds of Charles and Susan Barings' home, Mountain Lodge. The original wooden chapel burned and the Barings rebuilt with brick. In 1836 they gave the chapel to the Diocese of North Carolina. To accommodate the rapidly growing congregation, the parish enlarged the building, completing today's structure in 1852.
Although slaves were buried here, the integration was not perfect. Eventually, the markers and identification were lost. The grounds were restored, and crosses hand-made, by Junior Warden Clyde H. Bloedorn in 1971.
Cradle of Forestry in America, near Brevard.
The museum is on the site of a forestry college established in 1895 by Carl. A. Schenck. Schenck originally came to North Carolina to work on George Vanderbilt's estate, and then went to work on the reclaimed woodland that became Pisgah National Forest. You can crawl beneath the structure to the right of the aisle, to see the kind of things that live below the forest floor.
Western North Carolina in general, and Transylvania County in particular, are loaded with waterfalls. We visited just a few of them. There's a wealth of information about them on the internet, whether you're hiking or touring with a group.
Sliding Rock is also near Brevard.
It's a natural waterslide. The drop here is also 60 feet, but it's gradual. There are railings on the left to help you walk up for your next trip down the slide. This quiet stream is at the bottom.
Glassmine Falls, Buncombe County.
This is not in the same area; we saw it another day from the Blue Ridge Parkway. Eight hundred feet high, it's one of the tallest waterfalls east of the Mississippi River.
We visited the Biltmore Estate south of Asheville.
You know it's a large property when the directions to parking start with "drive three miles …."
The water features are on a terrace about halfway from Diana to the front door. It was a gloomy day, but not yet raining when we arrived. We decided to check out the grounds first, and save the inside tour for when the rain came. The opulence never stops overwhelming. This place was built in the 1890s, when there was no income tax and the owner had a lot of income. His family had made their fortune in railroads. So, in this age before gas-engine vehicles, Mr. Vanderbilt built a railway spur to the property, just to deliver materials. When all the materials were on site, he tore up the railroad.
There are several terra cotta statues in this garden, all putti (cherubs). These were popular during the Renaissance in Italy. This little angel is at the far end of the garden, watching over a dry fountain as he looks toward the mansion. Biltmore staff say that there was never any water here.
The south terrace is off one side of the mansion, reached by a walkway under a wisteria-covered pergola.
The statues on the terrace have a more complicated story. Antoine Coysevox (1640–1720) was commissioned to make three marble statues for the Château de Marly, Louis XIV's estate just west of Paris. They were finished in 1709–10, moved to Tuileries Garden in 1716, and moved again to the Louvre a couple hundred years later. Here are two of the terra cotta copies Vanderbilt commissioned for his mountain home. (The links go to the Louvre's information pages.)
Two architects were so important in building the estate that Vanderbilt commissioned John Singer Sargent to paint large portraits of them for his gallery. They were Richard Morris Hunt, who designed the buildings; and Frederick Law Olmstead, who designed the grounds. Hunt was already famous for several of Newport's grand mansions, and Olmstead was the inventor of landscape architecture. His designs include New York's Central Park and Brooklyn's Prospect Park. His artistry is on display at Biltmore, as we strolled the azalea garden before the sky opened up.
We were here at the beginning of azalea time, feasting our eyes on a carpet of purples and whites. A beautiful stream runs through this garden, looking for all the world like it had always been there and Olmstead simply planted along its banks. In fact, the planting came first and the stream — every twig, each rock — was placed exactly where Olmstead wanted it.
As with his other designs, Olmstead made the woods look more natural than if they were truly wild. The little bridge made of found rocks? Manmade, the rocks were hauled in. The bass pond at the end of the path? Dug to order. The beauty of the design is that the visitor doesn't see the design. We stayed in this outdoor "living room" for an hour or so until it started looking like the rain was almost on us. Then we made our way back to the mansion to check out Mr. Hunt's work. We almost got there in time to stay dry.
No photography is allowed in the mansion, so you'll need to visit in person, or browse their website, or find someone's bootleg photos. Cell phones are everywhere now, so the pictures aren't hard to find.
This was along the Blue Ridge Parkway. We only drove a short piece of this road. It's 470 miles from end to end, with speed limits from 25 to 45 miles per hour (and they dare you to do it). We used the part that goes to Mount Mitchell, the highest peak east of the Mississippi River. You can see the moisture on the grass in this photo. As we climbed higher onto the mountain, we were made painfully aware of our light clothing. It was early May, and it was snowing up there!
The trip wouldn't be complete if we didn't visit an airport. This is the Jackson County Airport in Sylva. The runway is carved out of the side of a mountain. It looks OK on a calm day, but I imagine landing would be quite a challenge when the wind picks up.
Lake Lure is the area's light company. At the east end, its two turbines generate 3.4 megawatts. The beaches and fishing are nice side effects.
There is a much larger version of this photo here
That view of Lake Lure is from Chimney Rock, the area's signature rock formation. These gneiss forms were pushed to the surface about half a billion years ago. It's a state park now, with several trails for hiking. And there's that panoramic view of Lake Lure. They even have an elevator to the top. We took the stairs.
This is an example of a talus cave which formed when a very large slab of Henderson Gneiss exfoliated from the main mountain wall and slid to the cliff base. It formed the small cave by leaning back against the mountain and creating an opening. Talus or fissure caves are very different from limestone caverns, which form through dissolution of limestone by acid water.
Dr. Lucius B. Morse 1871–1946
Hiram B. Morse 1864–1952
Asahel U. Morse 1864–1939
Three brothers whose vision and faith developed Chimney Rock and made the beauty of its area accessible to all future generations.
It was through the inspiration and personal organizational ability of Dr.Lucius B. Morse that the dam creating Lake Lure was finished in 1926 and in 1927 the town of Lake Lure was incorporated.
In 1949 Hiram B. Morse saw completed a dream long held by the brothers, an elevator to make Chimney Rock more easily reached by everyone.
Guilford Nanney 1871–1952
Superintendent of Chimney Rock for over 30 years, whose high degree of technical skill constructed the trail system over the mountain, built the many buildings and maintained the property through all weathers.
I don't have any scenic view of Mount Mitchell because we were on Mount Mitchell. So I'll leave you with a view of Tanbark Ridge in Buncombe County. It was seen from the Blue Ridge Parkway lay-by at Craven Gap (Mile 377).
There is a much larger version of this photo here.