Usually, the Northeast
American Yankee Association
has one-day fly-in meetups. Land, lunch, and leave. In October, a few of us
got together for a weekend in Bar Harbor, Maine. The plan was to enjoy the
town and
Acadia National Park, but
the President ordered all National Parks off-limits to visitors because
Congress wouldn't pass the budget he wanted.
So we walked around town and found other places to take in the scenery.
Just in case you don't know you're in Maine, there's a moose on top of one
store (it lights up at night) and a happy lobster guarding the front of
another.
The local population swells considerably when the cruise boats come in.
The four-masted windjammer is a dude schooner for those who only want a
couple of hours on the water.
Here's another view of Frenchman's Bay and the Porcupines (islands), before
the cruise boat arrived.
The last two shots were taken
at the beginning of the mile-long Shore Path, a scenic walk
that's been open to the public since 1880. Geologists believe the
balancing rock was left behind by a retreating glacier about 10,000 years ago.
It's made of a different mineral than the ledge it sits on. We watched a big
guy try to push it over. Maybe he thought he was stronger than ten thousand
years' worth of hurricanes.
Because we couldn't get into the national park, we explored some other places that we would probably never have seen. I think we're better off for the experience.
Joseph Curtis, a landscape architect who summered in Northeast Harbor,
owned 140 acres between the harbor and what is now park property. He called
his summer home
Thuya Lodge after the abundant white cedar, Thuja
occidentalis. He built a switchback path on the steep hillside, which
gave us stunning harbor views as we made our way up to his lodge and its
gardens.
The gardens were the work of Charles Savage, who became trustee of the
property after Mr. Curtis died. Today's gardens are a beautiful semi-formal
retreat, and – as just before we showed up – are sometimes
used for events like weddings.
Monarch butterflies must migrate because they are not built to survive the
winter. The Monarchs that live here in the summer follow the Atlantic coast
to spend the winter in Florida. When they return, three generations will
pass before the next migration. Each fall's trekkers are the
great-grandchildren of the Monarchs who made the previous year's trip.
But they follow the exact route their ancestors used, often lighting on the
exact same trees each year. Without GPS, and without asking for directions.
Thuya Garden is an official
Monarch Waystation. It has bamboo and other plants to provide shelter,
and a few species of milkweed, essential nutrient for the Monarchs.
Humans have somewhat different dietary needs, so we had breakfast at a
bakery with a casual schedule.
Down the hill from Thuya Lodge, Charles Savage built the
Asticou Azalea Garden, styled after the Japanese stroll gardens that were
popular in this country a hundred years ago. The azaleas were bare in
October, but there was still plenty of color in the garden, and the sculpture
is always pleasant to behold. So are the stepping stones.
The paths and the sand garden are raked every day. Supposedly, there is a
mystic art to raking exactly the right pattern to set the observer's mood in
the right place. The sand garden is one of many outdoor "rooms" that compose
Asticou. It evokes a tranquil lake with islands.
This place is a photographer's paradise. There were even a few professional models in evidence, necessarily cropped out of these photos.
After we had our fill of Asticou's serenity, we stopped by the sand beach at
Seal Harbor. First, the mandatory construction of statues, …
… then the teenagers got a view of the harbor from these waterfront
swings. We were informed that you could see beyond the harbor to the
Atlantic Ocean, if you swing high enough.
It probably cost more money for the barrycades and sentries to keep us out of
the park, than its normal operating costs. We couldn't get to Champlain
Mountain and the Precipice, but we were able to drive to a good view of the
place. Acadia National Park is a patchwork of private, municipal, and federal
land. Only the federal part was off limits to visiting Americans. It takes
more than a bunch of crybabies in Washington – six hundred miles away
– to keep us from savoring coastal Maine's beauty. We're looking forward
to the AYA's convention in this area, in 2015.